Education and career
Assoc. professor Michail Michailov has been teaching “Theory and methodology of sports training” in the Department of “Theory of Sport" since 2001. He received his doctoral degree in 2006. The subject of his dissertation was: “Investigation of the factors of performance in sport climbing”. Assoc. professor Michail Michailov is a member of the Medical Committee at the International Mountaineering and climbing federation (UIAA) and was a collaborator at the directorate of Control and Management of Sports Preparation at the Ministry of Physical Education and Sports in Bulgaria.
Specializations / work abroad
Speaker at the BMC Climbing Injury Symposium, Manchester, UK, 2016.
Union of the Bavarian Sport Physicians, sports medicine course “Sportklettern – Sportmedizinische Aspekte”, 2009, 2011 and 2013 (lecturer).
University School for Physical Education in Krakow, Sports Medicine department, 2010 – 2011 (specialization).
Sport University of Cologne, Germany, 2008 (Erasmus program: teaching mobility).
Other skills and experience
Development of a methodology for the assessment of sport-specific strength, muscle endurance and local aerobic and anaerobic capacity in climbers in collaboration with Associated Professor Jiri Balas from the Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University in Prague, Czech Republic, 2016-2018.
Innovation of an advanced system for comprehensive performance assessment in climbers in collaboration with Associated Professor Stoyan Tanev and Chief Assistant Professor Plamen Trendafilov from the Institute for Space and Solar-Terrestrial Research, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 2015.
Temporary serving as Head of Department, 2017
Head of scientific research projects, 2009-2016
Testing elite athletes and performance analysis at the directorate of Control and Management of Sports Preparation at the Ministry of Physical Education and Sports in Bulgaria, 2012 – 2013.
Author of articles published in impact factor journals.
Reviews of scientific articles in journals such as: International Journal of Sports Medicine, Sports Medicine, Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, Medicina Sportiva, Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports.
Member of the jury of the International Mountain Film Festival, Bansko, Bulgaria, 2009
Member of the counsel of Bulgarian Federation for Climbing and Mountaineering, 2007 - 2009
Foreign languages
English, German, Russian and Polish
Pedagogical activity
Sports activity
Assoc. prof. Michailov is devoted to rock climbing and alpinism. He also enjoys practicing skiing, tennis, swimming and running.
Coaching: sport climbing groups and mountaineering courses.
High performance climbing achievements:
First ascent on the unclimbed peak Levski (5733 m) in Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, 2012.
Trango Nameless Tower (6257 m) via the Slovenian route, Pakistan, 1998 (becomes the youngest climber who has climbed this difficult big wall).
El Capitan via the Nose, California, 2007.
Peak Lenin 7134 m, Pamir, 2004.
National ice climbing champion 1998; National champion on alpinism for 2008 (winter) and 2009 (winter and summer).
Science interests
Theory and methodology of sports training.
Scientific support in elite sport.
Sports-specific physiological tests and performance diagnosis.
Specific training methodology for rock climbing.
Hypoxic training and mountain medicine.
Publications, books, guidances
Books
1. Michailov ML, Andonov H. Theory and methodology of sports training (in Bulgarian). Sofia: NSA Press 2013.
2. Michailov ML. Totally Devoted - Bases of training for physical qualities in climbing (in Bulgarian). Sofia: Walltopia; 2008.
Articles
Articles in English
1. Michailov ML, Baláš J, Tanev SK, Andonov HS, Kodejška J, Brown LE. Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing. Res Q Exerc Sport 2018; Mar 26:1-9. doi: 10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484.
2. Michailov M, Lambreva S, Deneva D, Andonov H. Importance of elbow flexor muscle strength and endurance in sport climbing. Journal of Applied Sports Sciences 2017; 1: 3-12.
3. Michailov M, Rokowski R, Ręgwelski T, Staszkiewicz R, Szygula Z, Brown L. Physiological Responses During Two Climbing Tests With Different Hold Types. International Journal of Sports Science & Coaching 2017; 12(2): 276–283. doi: 10.1177/1747954117694740
4. Baláš J, Michailov ML, Giles D, Kodejška J, Panáčková M, Fryer F. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. EJSS 2016; 16(7):764-772. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198.
5. KodejškaJ, Michailov ML, Baláš J. Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers. Acta Universitatis Carolinae Kinanthropologica 2015; 51( 2): 48-45.
6. Michailov ML, Morrison A, Ketenliev MM, Pentcheva BP. A Sport-Specific Upper-Body Ergometer Test for Evaluating Submaximal and Maximal Parameters in Elite Rock Climbers. Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2015; 10(3): 374–380. doi: 10.1123/ijspp.2014-0160. Epub 2014 Sep 17.
7. Michailov ML. Workload characteristic, performance limiting factors and methods for strength and endurance training in rock climbing. Med Sport 2014; 18 (3): 97-106.
8. Michailov M, Pentcheva B, Bonova I, Boyanov B, Jeynov B, Mateev G, Stefanova D. High peak oxygen consumption in rock climbing? In: 9th FIEP European Congress, 7th International Scientific Congress “Stress Sport Adaptation”. Congress Proceedings; 2014: 95-101.
9. Boyanov D, Petkov N, Michailov M. Bulgarian Karakoram expedition 2012. Khane Valley – Big Walls Project Phase ²². Japanese Alpine News 2013; 14: 91-96.
10. Petkov N, Boyanov D, Michailov M. Bulgarian Khane valley expedition 2011 – Pakistan. First phase Karakoram big walls project 2011/12, Tagas group (supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori). Japanese Alpine News 2012; 13: 30-47.
11. Michailov M, Mladenov L. Athletic profile of high altitude climbers and influence of an expedition on anthropometric variables. ABSTRACT. Med Sport 2011; 15 (3): 177.
12. Staszkiewicz R, Michailov M, Rokowski R, Ręgwelski T, Szyguła Z. The relationship between climbers’ level of sport and selected biomechanical parameters of the muscles. Med Sport 2011; 15 (3): 181-182.
13. Damjanova R, Groshev O, Jordanov P, Michailov M. International standards for testing and tests used as didactic and psyho-diagnostic tools. APES 2011; 1: 23-28.
14. Michailov ML, Mladenov LV, Schoeffl VR. Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Med Sport 2009; 13 (4): 231-238.
15. Stanković D, Joksimović A, Raković A, Michailov M, Piršl P. Metric characteristics of the sport climbing-specific strength tests. Facta Universitatis 2009; 7 (2): 161-169.
16. Michailov ML. Evolvement and experimentation of a new interval method for strength endurance development. In: Moritz FE, Haake S, ed. The Engineering of Sport 6, Volume 2. Development for disciplines. New York: Springer Science and Business Media; 2006: 291-296.
Articles in Bulgarian
17. Michailov M, Baláš J, Kodejška J. Local muscle aerobic capacity diagnostics. Sports and Science 2017; 1: 40-55.
18. Michailov M, Baláš J, Kodejška J. Index for the assessment of local muscle aerobic capacity. Sports and Science 2017; Special issue 1: 33-46.
19. Michailov M, Andonov X, Deneva D, Lambreva S, Groshev O, Yordanov P. Duration of isometric muscle contractions at given intensity in athletes practicing different sports. Sports and Science 2017; Special issue 1: 179-192.
20. Michailov ML, Rogleva G. Motivation of sport climbers and alpinists. In: Personality, Motivation, Sport, Volume 17. Sofia: NSA Press; 2012: 90-100.
21. Boyanov D, Michailov M, Petkov N. Bulgarian exploratory expedition “Karakorum 2011”. Sport & Science 2011; 6: 159-166.
22. Michailov Ì, Dobrev K, Groshev O, Yordanov P, Mladenov L. Physical fitness of children practicing different sports. Sport & Science 2011; 1: 93‐108.
23. Bachev B, Yordanov P, Tacov A, Groshev O, Michailov M, Andonov. Apparatus methodology for studying the jumping endurance in sport. In: Yearbook of the Technical University in Varna; "Modern technologies of training, monitoring and evaluation in physical education and sport in the educational system. Varna Technical University - Varna; 2011: 92-95.
24. Michailov M, Krastev L, Seliminski S, Groshev O, Jordanov P. Comparative analysis of immediate adaptation changes during training and competition in elite soccer players. Sport & Science 2010, special edition; “Sport, Stress, Adaptation – Olympic Sport and Sport for All”: 144-148.
25. Damyanova R, Michailov M. Projection of the physical load and physiological responses during training and competition in golf. Sport & Science 2009, special edition; 1: 135-142.
26. Michailov M, Krastev L. Training for sport-specific strength in climbing. Sport & Science 2008, special edition; 1: 15-20.
27. Mladenov L, Michailov M. Characteristics of high altitude climbers and the Influence of an expedition on the anthropometric variables. Sport & Science 2007, special edition; 4: 83-90.
28. Michailov M. Study of some of the major factors of performance in climbing. Sport & Science 2006, special edition; 2: 11-20.
29. Michailov M. Antropometric and sport-specific indicators of elite climbing competitors (boys and girls). In: Davidov D (eds). Scientific conference of young sport researchers. Sofia: Tiptoppress; 2005: 169-76.
30. Michailov ML. What motivates people to climb? In: Personality, Motivation, Sport, Volume 10. Sofia: c/o Jusautor Sofia; 2005: 97-99.
31. Michailov M. Presentation of the climbing discipline Deep water soloing. Sport & Science 2004, special edition; 3.
32. Michailov M. From Everest to Mallorca. In: Federation of Bulgarian Alpine Clubs. 75 years. Veliko Tarnovo: Faber; 2004.
33. Michailov M, Dasheva D, Mladenov L. Lactate, heart rate and exertion subjective scales as criteria for physical load during climbing. Sport & Science 2004, special edition; 1: 58-69.
34. Michailov M. Heart rate as an intensity indicator in climbing. Sports and Science 2004; 1.
35. Michailov M. Difficulties controlling the training load in sport climbing. In: Sports, Society, Education, Volume 8. Sofia: Tiptoppres; 2002: 253-258.
36. Michailov M, Mladenov K Dasheva E. Short term Adaptation during sport climbing. Sports and Science 2001, special edition; 56-59.
37. Michailov M, Dasheva E. Characteristics of the workload in climbing. Sports and Science 2001; application to issue 5: 44-50.
38. Michailov M, Dasheva E. Evolvement and experimentation of a new interval method for sport-specific strength endurance development in climbing. Sports and Science 2001; 5: 89-97.
Khane, Karakoram
Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Michail Michailov were the first to get to the summit of Levski Peak (5733 m) on 14 August 2012 climbing a new route on the west wall (650 m) in alpine style. The achievement was accomplished in a completely new climbing arena where no man has been on a major summit. Levski Peak is one of the central peaks of the Karakoram mountain ridge that separates Khane and Hangma valleys. The area of Khane valley is filled with many towers of complex configuration. The main summits (altitude: 5000 – 6000 m; wall length: 600 – 1200 m) are difficult to access and to climb.
Trango Tower
Nikolay Petkov Sofia Foteva, Milen Miltchev, Michail Michailov, Sotir Stoychev and Dimitar Koleshev climbed Trango Neymles Tower (6257 m) via the Slovenian route in June 1998. Sofia Foteva became the second woman in the world to climb the tower and Michail Michailov (20 years old then) was the youngest. While the summit of Everest (8848 m) at that time was reached by hundreds of climbers, Trango Tower has been climbed only by forty well accomplished climbers. This phenomenal tower is considered one of the most difficult summits in the world. It includes hard rock climbing at high altitude and multi-day working on its 1200 meter wall.
El Capitan, Yosemite
The team: Nikolay Petkov, Mihail Mihailov and Doychin Boyanov climbed also the iconic wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California via the "Nose" (1070 m) in the autumn of 2007.
|